My truck has -character-
Aug. 4th, 2003 01:21 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
skreidleEventually, I will get a replacment for my '86 Bronco II--possibly my neighbor's Jeep Wrangler*--and sell it, most likely to Katia, assuming logistics can be worked out for the sale. (Hehe.. it blue-books at $400 (fair) - $710 (good), depending how it's qualified for blemishes and mechanical problems--it loses a few hundred for the high mileage, average for an '86 is apparently 97K miles.)
* It's in excellent condition--he babies all of his vehicles--silver w/black soft-top, automatic, unknown mileage, assumed mid-90s, which would blue-book it around $5K, but hopefully less
Anyway, in preparation for this occurrence, I decided to write up a text file of all of my truck's idiosyncrasies and how to deal with them or what should be done about them. I plan/planned to include an annotated photo of the instrument panel, but haven't gotten around to it.
My Truck's Idosyncrasies:
Gas gauge: Always reads empty. Gas tank holds nominal 20gal, actually ~23. Use
average fuel economy of 17city/20highway, along with trip meter** or odometer, to
estimate distance 'til Empty. (Formerly read empty at 8gal left, but apparently float
sensor in tank sank.)
Oil pressure gauge: May drop into red-line low at idle; increasing idle speed may have
corrected this. May have leak or blockage in the oil pump pickup, or a failing pump.
Also, engine leaks some oil [at least] around the valve covers, as well as
transmission oil from the transmission. Check regularly--engine oil at every fillup,
trans a few times a year.
Engine temp gauge: Used to overheat semi-regularly. Replaced most external-to-engine
parts, still runs warm sometimes, infrequently overheats. Gunning the engine for a
few seconds with clutch depressed seems to kick it back down. (Implies sticking
thermostat, but it's been replaced twice.)
Instrument panel lights: Shorted out (will blow a new fuse), haven't tracked down the
short.
Emissions light: Safe to ignore. It's an engine run-time switch, not an actual
emissions sensor readout. There's a reset under the dash near/above the glovebox that
I couldn't find.
Odometer: Add 200,000mi.
** Trip meter: Usually works fine; occasionally flakes out at 0/100/200/300mi rollover.
Reset when you get gas to use as gas gauge replacement.
Fan speed: When control is set to Vent/heat, speeds are low/low/low/low/high. Set to
A/C, speeds are off/off/off/off/high.
Vent control: More or less accurate, air seems to leak over to other vents.
A/C: Compressor adds enough load to slow down engine, enough to stall the engine
before I increased the idle speed to counter it. System needs an R-12 recharge at
least annually.
Radio: Fader (front/rear) control backwards. Right-rear speaker flaky. Clock is set
by holding the grey clock/display button and rotating the right-hand knob--left for
hour, right for minute. Presets are set by holding a preset button for a few seconds
once on the desired station. Two sets of FM presets, one set of AM.
-------------------------
Clutch: Takes a strong left leg. May have an aftermarket return spring installed,
never checked.
4WD: Manual locking hubs. Don't forget to unlock once done with 4WD, or fuel economy will suffer.
Steering: Turning the wheel all the way to one side or the other with the car sitting
still will stall the engine, for some reason.
Car phone: Works, in theory, but has no service. Should allow for 911 calls.
Seat reclines: Work right sometimes. Passenger seat has a bolt replaced in the
recline mechanism, which may interfere.
Tires/rims: Three are P225/75R15, left-rear is P215/75R15. Keyed lug tool is in or
above glovebox. Three are new June '03.
Towing: Step hitch is rated Class 1; wiring harness is tied up under the left side of the bumper.
Tailgate: Push to the left while closing to ensure that it latches.
Superficial damage: All left panels, and tailgate issue, from a 1/4 rollover due to
ice, January '01, no repairs necessary. Left-rear wheel change due to minor
rear-ending by small sports car, December '01, damaged rim and tire--had spare of
slightly different size, doesn't seems to affect handling or wear.
* It's in excellent condition--he babies all of his vehicles--silver w/black soft-top, automatic, unknown mileage, assumed mid-90s, which would blue-book it around $5K, but hopefully less
Anyway, in preparation for this occurrence, I decided to write up a text file of all of my truck's idiosyncrasies and how to deal with them or what should be done about them. I plan/planned to include an annotated photo of the instrument panel, but haven't gotten around to it.
My Truck's Idosyncrasies:
Gas gauge: Always reads empty. Gas tank holds nominal 20gal, actually ~23. Use
average fuel economy of 17city/20highway, along with trip meter** or odometer, to
estimate distance 'til Empty. (Formerly read empty at 8gal left, but apparently float
sensor in tank sank.)
Oil pressure gauge: May drop into red-line low at idle; increasing idle speed may have
corrected this. May have leak or blockage in the oil pump pickup, or a failing pump.
Also, engine leaks some oil [at least] around the valve covers, as well as
transmission oil from the transmission. Check regularly--engine oil at every fillup,
trans a few times a year.
Engine temp gauge: Used to overheat semi-regularly. Replaced most external-to-engine
parts, still runs warm sometimes, infrequently overheats. Gunning the engine for a
few seconds with clutch depressed seems to kick it back down. (Implies sticking
thermostat, but it's been replaced twice.)
Instrument panel lights: Shorted out (will blow a new fuse), haven't tracked down the
short.
Emissions light: Safe to ignore. It's an engine run-time switch, not an actual
emissions sensor readout. There's a reset under the dash near/above the glovebox that
I couldn't find.
Odometer: Add 200,000mi.
** Trip meter: Usually works fine; occasionally flakes out at 0/100/200/300mi rollover.
Reset when you get gas to use as gas gauge replacement.
Fan speed: When control is set to Vent/heat, speeds are low/low/low/low/high. Set to
A/C, speeds are off/off/off/off/high.
Vent control: More or less accurate, air seems to leak over to other vents.
A/C: Compressor adds enough load to slow down engine, enough to stall the engine
before I increased the idle speed to counter it. System needs an R-12 recharge at
least annually.
Radio: Fader (front/rear) control backwards. Right-rear speaker flaky. Clock is set
by holding the grey clock/display button and rotating the right-hand knob--left for
hour, right for minute. Presets are set by holding a preset button for a few seconds
once on the desired station. Two sets of FM presets, one set of AM.
-------------------------
Clutch: Takes a strong left leg. May have an aftermarket return spring installed,
never checked.
4WD: Manual locking hubs. Don't forget to unlock once done with 4WD, or fuel economy will suffer.
Steering: Turning the wheel all the way to one side or the other with the car sitting
still will stall the engine, for some reason.
Car phone: Works, in theory, but has no service. Should allow for 911 calls.
Seat reclines: Work right sometimes. Passenger seat has a bolt replaced in the
recline mechanism, which may interfere.
Tires/rims: Three are P225/75R15, left-rear is P215/75R15. Keyed lug tool is in or
above glovebox. Three are new June '03.
Towing: Step hitch is rated Class 1; wiring harness is tied up under the left side of the bumper.
Tailgate: Push to the left while closing to ensure that it latches.
Superficial damage: All left panels, and tailgate issue, from a 1/4 rollover due to
ice, January '01, no repairs necessary. Left-rear wheel change due to minor
rear-ending by small sports car, December '01, damaged rim and tire--had spare of
slightly different size, doesn't seems to affect handling or wear.
